Di-ikat

Arguably the oldest ikats in existence came from China during the T’ang dynasty (7-10th centuries) but strong similarities in the woven motifs appear in the cloths of Timor, Flores and other Indonesian islands. According to Bedrich Forman, “Indonesian Batik and Ikat”(1988), “In the worldwide ikat-weaving tradition Indonesia, without any doubt, holds the most important position.” When and how ikat weaving began in Indonesia, and was influenced by trading and local interpretation over centuries, is a complex history. In Indonesia today, it is produced mainly on Kalimanatan, Bali, Sumba, Sulawesi, Flores and Timor. On Flores with its rugged terrain, isolated communities, many languages and local cultures, ikat weaving seems to have reached an apogee.

Ikat is a resist dye technique whereby the threads are tie dyed before weaving begins. The cotton threads to form the warp are tied and dyed in bundles to traditional patterns inherited and remembered by the women weavers. When strung on the loom, as the plain coloured weft threads are woven, the pattern appears. Many patterns and motifs have evolved over time and through exposure to historically traded textiles such as Indian Gujurati, silk patolah cloths.

In Flores, a person can be identified as coming from one of the five regencies by the patterning of their textile garments, such is the distinctive nature of the colours, motifs, patterns and techniques. “The handwoven textiles play a central role, serving not only as clothing, but also as key ingredients in a web of social and economic transactions and as a leading focus of artistic expression.” ( Roy Hamilton, “Gift of the Cotton Maiden: Textiles of Flores and the Solor Islands, 1994).

The significance of ikat textiles continues to this day in the secular and spiritual life of people on Flores despite the slow and sad decline in their production by traditional methods.